San Blas Islands & Bocas del Toro

MAP - SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA

Click Here for a DETAILED MAP of the San Blas Islands

SAN BLAS ISLANDS  - KUNA INDIANS

 http://centralamerica.com/panama/pansanblas.htm 

The Kuna are considerate and attentive hosts, preparing wonderful meals of lobster, crab and fish freshly harvested from the sea and guiding tourists in dugout canoes to small, uninhabited islands with gorgeous beaches and pristine coral reefs. Politically independent, the Kuna won their right to self-government in the Kuna Revolution of 1925, an historic event that San Blas celebrates every February with the local holiday of Mor Ginnid. Kuna law prohibits fishing in their waters by boats with sophisticated machinery or the taking of anything from the sea that a diver can not reach with air from his own lungs. Scuba diving is therefore not permitted, but tourists may snorkel in the reef, one of the oldest and best preserved in the world.

Visitors to San Blas will be treated to a tour of one of the 49 Kuna communities, to observe daily life at first-hand The men rise early to fish or tend their farms on the mainland, paddling off on their business in dugout canoes that are sometimes equipped with makeshift sails. Fresh crab, lobster, octopus and fish, caught with nets or spears, are exported to Panama City. On their farms, the Kuna men raise vegetables, fruits, coffee and the all-important coconut, 15 million of which are exported each year to neighboring Colombia. Coconuts can actually be used as coins in Kuna commerce and have a value of about ten US cents. A soda, which costs about 40 cents, can be purchased for four coconuts on the islands of San Blas!

Visitors will also see women at work making molas, the traditional women's garments. Molas are panels of cloth appliqué, which are sewn into the fronts and backs of blouses. Mola designs vary from the abstract and geometric to representations of birds, fish and innumerable other subjects, all different, but all distinctly Kuna. These works of art are one of Panama's best-known native crafts and can be purchased in every town of San Blas. Also available are necklaces of sea shells, and chaquiras, the bead bracelets used to adorn women's arms and legs. Visitors may also have the chance to visit a traditional Kuna house, made of palm-thatched roofs and cane walls, and observe the kitchen and sleeping quarters.

Towns on San Blas are exceptionally tidy. Public buildings include schools, health centers and the town hall, a long building with thatched roof which is the heart of each community Citizens meet daily, except Saturdays and Sundays, to discuss community affairs, as well as issues involving neighboring communities and Kuna culture in general. Town meetings are presided over by the community’s leader known as the sahila.

Beyond cultural tours and snorkeling, visitors may also accompany Kuna men to fish, of trek rainforest reserves on the mainland, where birds and other wildlife are abundant. There are hotels on the islands of Wichubwala, Nalunega, Ailigandi, Nargana, Achutupo and Carti-Sugtupu, which also provide meals for guests. Most Kuna communities have an airstrip, either on the island or the mainland nearby, and are easily accessible by light aircraft. A visit to these beautiful islands, set like jewels in the turquoise water of the Caribbean, will be one of the most memorable experiences of your visit to Panama.

SAN BLAS ISLANDS - PARADISE FOUND

YachtCrew.com 

Paradise FOUND -Yacht charters in Panama

YachtCrew.com

If your idea of paradise is a scattering of islands, many of them uninhabited, covered with coconut palm and ringed with white sand beaches, then perhaps you have found it. Paradise. Running from the Golfo de San Blas to Cape Tiburon on the border of Columbia, the San Blas Islands lie nestled safely in azure waters, protected on one side by a reef holding back the waves of the Atlantic Ocean and guarded on the other side by the towering, tree covered mountains of Panama.

The San Blas archipelago lies outside the direct influence of the Caribbean trade winds, and is south of hurricane threats. Dry season normally runs from December through April, when bright sunshine prevails and the winds can blow 25-20 knots. Safe within the protective reef, the islands are sheltered from the waves and only when a yacht leaves the protected embrace of the area will it feel the force of the wind-driven water. Rainy season has drastically reduced breezes and gray skies punctuated alternately by short squalls and brilliant sunshine.

The islands and coastal forest are inhabited by people of the Comarca de San Blas or Kuna Yala, as they refer to it. They appear to be little changed from the times before the Spanish Conquista, a direct result of the legendary tenacity of the Kuna people. According to their oral tradition, the Kuna’s forefathers lived in the Darien mountains of Panama. It is believed that they numbered between 500,000 and 750,000 at the time of the Spanish arrival. Whether it was pressure from other tribes or from the Spanish invaders, the majority of Kunas moved to the coast and later to the offshore islands.

After suffering from inroads from outsiders, the Kunas rebelled in 1925, killing many Panamanian policemen and children of mixed blood living in the islands. Finally, in 1938, the government of Panama granted the Kuna leaders almost autonomous control. Even today, the Kuna Indians pay no taxes to Panama even though they are allowed to vote in all Panamanian elections. The Carta Organica, the Kuna constitution, sets the governing principals for the three districts of Kuna Yala, each district is headed by an elected cacique, or high chief. The Kuna nation consists of 49 communities which are home to about 50,000 Kuna Indians today.

Each community elects their own chief, or sahila (pronounced sigh-la) that presides over the local daily congresso., The daily congresso is held in the afternoon in the large council house located on the island. The chief swings in his hammock while everyone else is seated on wooden benches. A complex system of laws exists, with an equally complex system of punishment existing for ignoring or breaking the laws: from fines to being made to sit on a very tiny chair during the daily congresso, to ostracism or even expulsion.

Permits are necessary for seemingly everything, including visiting another village. Of the 49 communities, approximately half are headed by women sahilas. The Kuna society is matrilineal, with new husbands moving into the wife’s compound. The law dictates that the land belongs to all Kunas. This has the benefit that all of the people perceive themselves as co-owners of the islands and the mainland which is Kuna territory.

However, the coconut palms on the islands are all individually owned and the coconuts harvested from the trees provide cash. The Kuna women have their own source of cash...the making and selling of molas. Each mola is an intricately worked reverse appliqué design, measuring from 4” X 4” for small molas to 2’ X 2” for larger ones. Prices depend on the size of the mola, the number of layers and the size of the stitches, anywhere from $1 to several hundred dollars per mola.

Traditionally, the women wear them stitched to the front and back of their blouses. They also create strings of tiny beads, which when wrapped on wrist or leg, create intricate patterns and designs. Another source of cash comes from the “one dollah” to take their picture...so when you go to these wonderful islands and want to take pictures of these beautiful people and their children, bring plenty of single dollar bills! Any time a boat anchors near one of the islands, it is sure to be greeted by at least one (usually more) dugout canoe with Kuna women ready to sell you molas, the men with coconuts, fish, lobsters and sometimes vegetables.

Often the whole family is in the dugout, including the grandma, children and dog! The canoes are sometimes powered by an outboard engine, but even more often it is paddled with hand-made wooden paddles. The constant use of the canoe produces expert boat handlers and extreme stamina, as the dugouts are neither light nor graceful. Perhaps because of this relentless strength, the Kuna people have maintained their reputation as fierce warriors and even today, squatters fear to intrude on Kuna territory.

As a result of their fierce reputation, in a world of shrinking rain forests, the land of Kuna Yala is a notable exception. Kuna huts consist of reeds or canes to form their sides and palm fronds thatching the roof, so no hardwoods are needed for their construction. A small number of trees are used for the making of the dugouts, but the hills remain densely wooded. Farming is subsistence level and cattle are not raised, so the forests will stand for years to come, safe in the care of the Kunas.

The Kuna Indians are a friendly people inhabiting beautiful, fascinating islands and coastal lands that beckon you to explore them.

How many islands make up the San Blas archipelago? Depends on who is telling you, but the numbers run anywhere from 243 to the oh-so-very convenient number of 365, one for each day of the year. Obviously, you won’t have time to visit them all, plus some interesting places on the mainland territory of Kuna Yala, so we will introduce you to a few delectable choices here. The north part of the San Blas Islands are defined by Punto San Blas, an arm of land reaching out from the mainland, as if striving to touch the islands so close to it, wrapping the Golfo de San Blas in its protective embrace.

The island of Porvenier lies a short distance from the end of the Punta San Blas and features a small airstrip, which is an excellent place for guest and charter yacht to rendezvous. While Porvenier has no village, immediately to the south lie Wichubhuala and Nalunega. The huts are so close together and so near the waters edge, that viewed from the sea, they appear to be holding onto each other to keep from spilling into the ocean. Plenty of molas and other crafts for sale, with bright-eyed children everywhere, some shy and curious, others wanting you to take their picture for the inevitable “one dollah”.

The Chichime Cays lie about 4 miles to the northeast of Porvenier and have become so popular with visiting yachts that the Kunas sometimes call them Puerto Yate. They have no village, merely a few huts scattered in the thick groves of coconut palms. There is a deep pool between the islands, protected by a shallow reef that extends toward the ocean. Excellent snorkeling is to be found on the lee side of this reef.

A bit further to the north and east of the Chichime Cays lie the Holandes Cays, Kaimon in Kuna. There are sixteen palm clad islands, wrapped by sugary white sand beaches, drifting in the clear protected water of a seven mile long area of fringing reef. Divers and snorkelers might never be enticed back out of the water, once they have experienced this enchanting area. However, divers should note: fishing is strictly prohibited while on scuba. Beyond the Holandes Cays lies the Coco Bandero Cays.

They continue the “perfect island” phenomenon of small islands, azure waters providing the perfect setting for these jewels, each more stunning than the last. The biggest problem is deciding which one to visit next. Tearing yourself away from the outlying islands, you will surely want to return to the Punta San Blas and explore the inner islands, plus some of the delights to be found on the mainland territory of Kuna Yala. Sheltered under the arm of Punta San Blas is Tadarguanet Island, Kuna for “where the sun sets”.

Tupsuit Dumat (also called Alitupu) is a good base for exploring the nearby rivers on the mainland, there are two that are worth exploring. The first is Rio Torti, with a cemetery on the right, almost as soon as you enter. Kuna cemeteriea are usually close to the rivers. Thatched roofs on poles shade the deep clay graves where the deceased are buried in hammocks, accompanied by everyday utensils for the afterlife. The other river is Rio Mandinga, noteworthy because of its vast number and variety of birdlife.

Nurdupu lies to the east of the Tadarguanet islands and almost directly south of Porvenier. Nurdupu has all the aspects of the perfect tropical island. Huts are in shady spots under breadfruit trees and coconut palms. Many of the coconut palms have been pierced to take the levers of sugar can presses to make the juice for chichi. Chicha is a mild alcoholic drink from fermented sugar cane juice. Collecting the cane, pressing the juice and then several days of tasting the fermenting concoction terminates in two or three days of celebration, such as the Kuna Independence Revolution Day.

Rio Sidra, though sounding like a river, is actually an island consisting of two villages, Mamartupu and Urgandu. Both villages have their own chiefs. Also of interest is that Rio Sidra is heavily populated and has an airstrip which receives several flights a day, making it an excellent place to start or end your charter. Rio Diablo lies further east and is home to not one, but two airstrips. The name of Rio Diablo is found on the charts, however, the two villages comprising the bridged community. One is known as Naragana in Panamanian and Yandup in Kuna, the other is Corazon de Jesus in Panamanian and Akuanusatupu in Kuna. Just a bit confusing!

Extensive outer reefs smooth the inshore waters from Punta Brava to Achutupu. Within these protected waters is Airligandi, a heavily populated island with several restaurants, a hotel and a clinic. The nearby river of Rio Nasadi is a nice excursion, with its large stands of bamboo and mango trees to wander through. Continuing down the coast, one comes upon Ustupu, the largest village in San Blas.

Home to about 8,000 people, not counting children, with a bridge connecting it to Ogopsukum, home to an additional 2,000 inhabitants. Several flight a day land on the two airstrips, one located on the island and the other on the mainland. Sugandi Tiwar is a nearby river that should bwe explored. Its estuary is marked by the hulks of giant trees washed down during the flood of 1925 which forced the village to move from the mainland to Ustupu.

There are large cemeteries on both sides of the river and in the afternoon hours, the bird activity is positively raucous. The Kunas call Isla Pinos: Tupbak, or “whale”, for its resemblance to a giant beached whale. For centuries the 400’ high island has served as a landmark and landfall for mariners. This protected yet easily entered and exited anchorage made a perfect base for buccaneers working the Spanish Main, especially the gold transport shipments. Later, new England schooners would come to purchase coconuts. Today, yachts continue to enjoy it and visit the two villages located there.

Sukunya is the Kuna word for the small penisula that the Spanish called Punta Escoses. Escoses is the Spanish word for “Scottish”. In 1698 the Scotts attempted to establish a colony there, starting with an expedition of 1200 people. Defeated by starvation and disease, they returned home, passing two ships carrying reinforcements from Scotland. They too, gave up and returned to Scotland in 1702. Of the 2,800 people involved, over 2,000 perished. Only a boat channel hacked out of the coral limestone and a length of moat remains of what was once Fort Andrews.

Today, the San Blas Islands wait to be discovered and explored. Perfect tropical islands, winding, shaded rivers, protected azure waters, history, dense rainforests, friendly people...the San Blas Islands and the territory of Kuna Yala. Paradise Found.

SAN BLAS ISLANDS - INSIDE INFO

ExplorePanama.com 

Inhabitants of the San Blas Archipelago live at the Mulatas' Archipelago or San Blas and at the Bayano and Chucunaque rivers basins. They are of Caribe origin, small in stature, short neck and big head, broad backs, strong chest, short legs and small feet. They dress moderately. The Kuna women still wear long skirts, red and yellow headdresses, appliqued mola blouses with showy colors. They wear gold earrings and a ring in their noses, keep their traditions and legends, their beliefs and myths, and their Gods.

Inhabitants of San Blas believe in superstition. Their language is rich and vast. They practice monogamy and adultery is a felony. Their leader is the Sahila who has authority on the community in which he lives. The Nele is the leader of several communities. They practice agriculture and cultivate coconut which is their main staple and which they have for sale. Although they cultivate corn, rice, cocoa and yucca, essentially they are fishermen. The National Government provides elementary schools for them and also a Junior High School at the Nargana Island. The adventure at San Blas could be a stay at an uninhabited island, a fishing tour, dancing and traditional rites, diving and submarine fishing, the enjoyment of the crystalline waters or merely the peace of a hammock swung by the wind or to get a tan.

Though they maintain their traditions, the Kuna have also become adept at modern business practices: The region's six hotels are owned and operated by the tribe, and all offer visits to nearby villages and snorkeling excursions. A newer hotel on the island of Kuadule offers private oceanfront huts and meals cooked by Kuna women. Business even comes to bear on any photos that you take of the Kuna: On most islands, you'll be expected to pay US$1 for each person in the photo.

Flight depart from the national airport in Panama City everyday at 6:00 a.m. to Porvenir and to several other islands, as far as Osbaldia Port. Flights return around 8:30 of the next morning. If you wish to go by road, take the Inter-American route toward Bayano; at the point of El Llano, Chepo, the route leads up to Carti in the middle of the San Blas coast, from there, canoes can be rented in order to make connections with the insular region.

San Blas Islands

El Porvenir- Seat of the Region
The regular weekly flights arrive on this Island. It is the strategic point to obtain more detailed information in connection with the kuna culture and the services offered by other islands. At Porvenir there are beaches and it is the administrative center for the governmental offices. Seat of the Region's Intendency. From here you may move to nearby islands. Even reaching Obaldia's Port, Panama's lost boundary with the Republic of Colombia.

Nargana
There is the Nargana Lodge Hotel. The island connects with another town through a wooden bridge, politically divided, known as Jesus' Heart (Corazon de Jesus), that is to say, it is an island that has two towns. These are two communities quite accustomed to other cultures, bilingual, men as well as women wear western clothes. Both towns are managed by the Sahilas. Presently these communities do not practice their rites, nor play their traditional instruments. They do not have much native things, however, its general aspect is quite pleasant because of its straight, clean and sandy streets. Traveling 15 minutes by canoe, you may visit Tigre Island, a very traditional island; women still wear Molas and they practice their traditional rites. The best typical dancing groups, well organized, are at Tigre Island. The inhabitants still make their handicrafts, to offer them to the tourists staying at the Nargana Hotel.

Wichubwala
The entire Archipelago favors tourist attention, but' the best services are found on this beautiful island. Here is the Anal Lodge; San Blas' best hotel. It has bungalow-type lodging, a marine pool with lobsters, it offers fishing trips or adventures to inhabited or uninhabited islands, diving or submarine fishing equipment are rented except for the oxygen tanks. It is worth mentioning that in the entire region there is no place to rent or fill up your oxygen tank.

Nalunega Island
Its name means 'Snapper Island', it is very attractive and its houses are traditional. This community takes advantage of the services of Porvenir Island.

Carti-sugtupu
We find the hotel which carries the some name of the island, and which belongs to the town. At Cartil there is radio-communication, post office, library, junior high s school, two docks, electricity, small shops, bakeries, a Catholic Church, a basketball court, health center and an airport on solid ground.

Ailigandi
Offers the services of the 'La Palmeco' Hotel, This community has a modern hospital, basketball courts, modest restaurants, shops, churches, airports on solid ground, post office, radio communication, plumbing, electricity, and a local Congress House. The hotel is a concrete, one story building, with a restaurant and a bar; it is property of the town cooperative society.

Special Events

Services

LODGING

El Porvenir
El Porvenir Hotel: 13 rooms. Tel: 221-1397

Nalunega Island
Hotel San Blas: 31 rooms, kuna style, 3 daily meals, tours around inhabited and uninhabited islands. radio communication. Tel: 262-5410

Wichub-Wala Island
Hotel Anai 20 rooms, Wooden floor and cane walls.Tel:239-3025.
Kuna Kishua Hotel. Five basic rooms. Tel:227-5308
Sugtupu With cabin like aspect, wooden floor and cone walls.

Ailigandi Island
La Palmera One story concrete building, With restaurant and bar. It belongs to the Town Cooperative Society.
Hotel Nargana 10 rooms; communication by radio. Hotel construction Kuno style.

Achutupo Island
Hotel Uaguitupo Cabins, restaurant, Bar.

Kuanidup Cabins, restaurant, bar.(Sidra River).

Iskardup Cabins, restaurant, bar.

Kwadule Eco-resort. 6 stand-alone cabinas and large restaurant. Tel: 269-6313

 PHOTOS - SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA

HOW TO GET THERE - SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA

Aeroperlas - http://www.aeroperlas.com - has daily flights to the main islands in the chain.

Turismo Aereo - http://www.turismoaereo.com - Daily flights to many parts of the archipelago.

Airfare is the same on both airlines and is quite reasonable. 

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